A modern bath without electricity can be considered an inferior structure in which one can not be soared in the dark. Therefore, the connection of electricity to the bathhouse is a prerequisite for its normal operation.
Within the framework of this publication, we will look at ways to bring electricity to the bathhouse, tell you how to dilute the internal wiring, and give some video instructions.
Content
Air connection
The electric meter is most often installed inside the building, so connecting the wires to the bath by air is quite simple and convenient. In the process of connection, several simple requirements must be observed.
So, if the building of the bathhouse is located more than 25 meters from the apartment house, a support will be required for the cable. It often happens that the cable needs to be carried over an automobile road with intensive traffic. In this case, the height of its gasket should not be less than 6 meters. If the cable is located above the pedestrian crossing, the minimum height of its location is 3.5 meters. In the place where the wire will enter the building, the height of the connection must be at least 2.75 meters.
For air connection, a self-supporting insulated cable (SIP) is used.
There are several types of this cable: SIP2, SIP3 and SIP4.
The official guarantee for these types of cable from the manufacturer is 25 years. In practice, it serves much longer due to a special polyethylene coating, resistant to ultraviolet radiation and other atmospheric influences. In addition, SIP-cables are well opposed to congestion in the network.
For connection to the bath it is necessary to buy a cable having a section of not less than 16 mm². Such a cable is capable of passing a current of up to 63A without any problems. In practice, this means that when one phase is connected, the power will be 14kW, and three phases - 43kW. For the bath this is more than enough.
SIP cables have their drawbacks. So, the cable of this section is very badly bent, so it's quite difficult to connect them, especially to connect to the protective circuit breaker, and to hide such cables is difficult. CIP are made of aluminum. Wires of this material are forbidden to be put into attic rooms. Therefore, at the place of connection, such a cable is changed to another, most often copper. As a rule, SIP-cables are connected to NYM or VVG, having a section of 10 mm. For safe interfacing of different types of cables, a special anchor clamp with an adapter is used, which is made of copper and aluminum.
In the place where the cable will pass through the wooden wall, the cutoff of the metal tube of the desired diameter is established.
All the details, including the cable itself, are quite expensive, so the connection will have to be spent.
Underground connection
If there is a possibility, and there is no foreign territory between the building of the bathhouse and the house, and all the necessary excavations have already been carried out, then the electric cable does not need to be pulled through the air. To lay the cable in a trench under the ground is much more practical and reliable, that is, to make a hidden wiring to the building.
For this purpose, you need to purchase a copper cable VBShv armored type, section not less than 10 mm.
A four-wire cable of this type costs not cheaply - more than 300 rubles for one running meter. However, if you do not take into account the high cost, which, by the way, is the only significant drawback of this cable, the product is worth the money spent on it. One of its main advantages - the material does not spoil the mouse, moles and other rodents. Case in a protective shell of steel binding. Thanks to such protection, the cable is not afraid even of strong shrinkage of the soil.
When underground cable is not used metal pipes, as they attract water in the form of condensate, which greatly reduces the operating time of the electrical cable. The use of metal pipes is allowed only in places where the cable exits the ground and for laying it in a vertical plane along a pillar or wall of the building. In this case, a pipe length of about 2 meters is used.
For laying underground wiring digging trench depth of at least 0.7 m.
The bottom of the ditch is cleared of debris and wakes up with a layer of clean sand 10-15 cm thick, after which a cable is laid on top and sprinkled with sand. If there is a risk of mechanical damage to the cable - for example, intensive traffic is expected above it, you can arrange additional protection with brickwork.
At the entrance to the building, the wiring is placed in a metal bushing made of trimming a pipe of the correct diameter. It will protect the cable from possible movements of the wooden wall and prevent the formation of shrinkage at the entrance. When the wire is brought to the shield, the armor is removed from the cable, after which the wires are connected to the machine.
Do not forget about the arrangement of local grounding and protection against lightning. It should be noted that all work on the supply of electricity to the building of the bathhouse should be carried out only by qualified electricians and in the presence of appropriate documents and permits.
Electrical equipment in the bath
In the connection panel, the required number of differential and input automata and RCDs are installed, and they are arranged in groups. Equipment of this type is most often used for rooms with high humidity.
Protective power off occurs when the current in the network is from 10 to 30 mA. All sockets in a wooden bath are connected with the help of NYM or ВВГнг cables, section not less than 2.5mm². For lighting, a cable for the same type of wiring with a cross section of 1.5 mm² is suitable.
To prevent moisture from getting on the switches or sockets, it is strictly forbidden to mount them in places of strong water-dispersed congestion, for example, in a steam room. The best option for placing electrical appliances in the bath is a dressing room. All necessary equipment is installed at a height of not less than 0.9 meters, which is considered safe. All switches for the bath, as well as sockets must necessarily be equipped with covers. The minimum protective class of the electric fittings must comply with IP-44. For lighting devices, IP-54 is considered to be the best protection class. Laying wires over heat sources in a bath is strictly prohibited.
Some useful recommendations
All wiring intended for the bath (including sockets, boxes, switches, lamps, etc.) should be purchased only in specialized stores, have splash protection and wiring protection class not less than IP-44. Devices must have a housing that protects them from all sides. The wiring in the devices is best from below, so that the water does not get inside. For additional reliability, a branch of the U-shape is made at the entry point of the wiring.
As already noted above, wiring to rooms with high humidity is only laid through differential and input automata, and also through a protective shutdown device that operates at a current strength of 10 to 30 mA.
All lighting devices must be operated from a lower voltage - 12-36 V. This allows to save some money on the installation of the transformer. Approximately once a month it will be necessary to check the RCD for operability. This is done using the "Test" key. All without exception, the wiring in the bath should have double insulation.
If the bath room is actively used, and inside, especially in the steam room, high temperature, it is better to use single-core cable in silicone insulation for wiring: SILFLEX sif S = 0,25-185 mm2.
As for the boiler room or the same steam room, it is better not to install electric distribution devices in these rooms, and all lamps must be connected to a lower voltage.
The RCD is mounted in the shield for the input protection, and the differential automatons are connected to the sockets.
Wiring in wooden baths can only be of an open type, and it is laid in metal or plastic boxes.
A corrugated pipe is also suitable for this purpose, provided that it is made of non-flammable material.
In case of ignition, such a pipe will melt, not burn. The mass flowing at the same time floods the fire, thus blocking its spread. All luminaires for the steam room and washing room must have IP-54 degree of protection, at least.
The best place to install the shield will be a rest room.
Stages of work on the installation of wiring in the bath
One of the main conditions for the installation of wiring in a wooden bath is the strict observance of fire safety rules. Before starting the installation work, calculate the power consumption, which is necessary for the electrical network of the bath. To begin with, the potential current is determined. Based on the results obtained, the cable cross-section is calculated, which should fully correspond to the design capacity. Fixtures for a bath will consume a small power - about 1-2 kW.
This is enough for their full functioning. But if in a bath it is planned to connect other, more power-consuming devices, then the capacity should be increased at least to 5 kW.
An important point: if an electric furnace is used as a source of heat in a bath, then it should be taken into account that it will require considerable power - up to 20 kW. For a person who is not a specialist in the electrical industry, wiring in the bath with their own hands
It may seem difficult, although in practice this is not always the case. For example, the manufacturer indicates, for example, a light bulb voltage in Volts and power in Watts. The majority of electrical household appliances operate at 220 V, although it also comes from a smaller (12, 36 V), and from a larger (380 V). Thus, an electric oven for a sauna consumes an average of 7 kW per hour with a standard voltage in the 220-250 V network.
Single-phase and three-phase connection
To begin with, consider the usual connection of one phase to 220 V, which is carried out using a two- or three-core cable. To the previously calculated load, it is necessary to add the power of the electric furnace.
Consider this in the following example:
To get an accurate result, you need to take into account all the appliances that are in the bath and consume electricity. For example, 6 lamps of 10 V use a current of 600 W, a hair dryer takes about 200 W, an electric heater - the same. The electric furnace consumes 4000 watts on average.
The result is a total power of 10600 watts. For reliability, add another 1/5 of the power. It turns out to be 12720 Watts. Before buying an automaton, you need to know the current. To do this, we divide the received power by the voltage - 12720/220 = 58A. Now, using the obtained results, it will be quite easy to choose the wire of the required cross-section. In this case, do not forget that this wire will connect the electrical panels in the bathhouse and the house.
After this, you can proceed to the wiring diagram for the stove and other points. At the very end, the current is calculated for the electric furnace. According to the principle given above, we obtain about 22 A. Based on this result, the cable of the desired section for the stove is selected.
If the stove is powered from three phases, then its connection is made by a four-five-wire cable with a symmetrically distributed load. In our case, the current strength of one phase is divided by three - at a power consumed by the furnace - 22A, the current per one core should be about 7A.
If the three-phase connection has a voltage of 380 V, then the cross-section of the wire must be reduced by three times. Thus, with a 10 kW electric furnace consumed, a 2.5 mm² cable with five cores and a double heat-resistant insulation on a rubber base is needed.
Wiring yourself with a bath is not as difficult as it might seem at first glance, and it is quite possible for a person with some knowledge and experience in this field to do it. The main thing is not to rush things, do everything carefully and follow the recommendations.
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