It's great if your plumbing works properly, without giving you any inconvenience and hassle. But what if the water leaking from day to day spoils the appearance of not only your renovated bathroom, but also the toilet of your neighbors? The first thing you want to do in this situation is to call a master who professionally but costly eliminates all the malfunctions, so do not rush! Virtually every person who knows how the flushing tank works and what a wrench is, can easily and quickly eliminate this problem.
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The operating principle of the drain tank
The principle of functioning of modern tanks practically did not change: the water is discharged by means of a float, a special system of levers and a seal. As the drain floats, the float moves downward, opening the inlet valve by means of a lever. Thanks to this process, the filling of the tank takes place through one tube, and through the other - the water enters the toilet. As the tank is being filled, the float moves upward and, at a certain height, the flow of water is blocked.
In some flush tank devices, instead of a float, a floating cup is used, which moves upward, moving along a vertical guide with the inlet valve installed in the upper part. At the time of draining the water, you can see the movement of the floating cup down and the opening of the valve. As the tank is refilled, the bowl rises and at some point closes the valve. A slight depression of the lever raises the flap located on the valve seat and activates the flushing system.
Features of the drain mechanism
So, if you pull up the handle or press the button, the force will raise the bulb, opening the drain hole through which water will flow into the bowl.
At first glance it may seem that after you remove your hand, the pear will take its original position, blocking the water. However, having looked at the rubber product, you will understand why it is completely different. The thing is that the pear inside is filled with air. It is he who creates the lift. When the tank is filled with water, the lifting force of the air flow in the pear is less than the water column, so the pear is pressed against the saddle. However, at the moment when it is at the highest point, the lifting force of the water becomes minimal, and the flow of water that rushes into the drain hole forces the rubber fixture forcefully. That's why she swims inside the tank, while it is filled with water. To ensure that the pear remained hollow and correctly "sits" in the saddle, an overflow tube is used.
The guide tube in the modernized tanks passes strictly in the center of the pear. The trigger mechanism is equipped with a float with a latch. During the discharge of water, the float, by means of a system of levers, holds the bulb at the top.
Water leakage: causes and remedies
After a certain time, even in conditions of the functioning of the draining mechanism, the pear becomes less elastic, coarser, which leads to wear on the areas of contact with the seat, the formation of cracks, deformation and the dislocation of the rubber pear to the saddle. You will not notice how the water will leak through the formed space in the toilet.
To successfully troubleshoot the operation of the flush tank you will need pliers, nippers, rubber gloves, and just in case a new drainage structure. Depending on the type of problem you should perform the following actions:
1. If leakage is formed in a float of the old type, and it does not float at the moment of filling the tank with water, it should be replaced. Usually it is screwed onto the thread at the end of the wire.
2. Pay attention to the pear or flap of the drain valve, which, in all likelihood, does not fit tight enough against the seat. To make sure that the valve seat is correctly seated, it is enough to block the flow of water into the flushing tank, drain all water, raise and drop the pear several times. If necessary, adjust the planting of the pear.
3. Check the rubber bulb or damper for revision. The surface of the rubber should not have pits, cracks and irregularities. Check its elasticity: lightly press on the surface - the pear should bend. If the rubber covers the rust layer, then pay attention to the ring of contact with the seat - the presence of rust indicates a leak. Such a pear as a deformed one should be replaced.
4. Carefully inspect the drain valve seat - it may have traces of mineral deposits or rust coming from the water. It should be noted that, due to the far inferior quality of water, rust abounds on the tank walls, drainage mechanisms, on the areas of contact with water.
To clean the surface of the seat, turn off the water supply, drain it from the tank and use a sponge of steel wire and a factory, chemical agent to remove deposits. Be careful! Do not damage the surface of the saddle. But if it is badly worn, you will have to fix a new saddle.
5. A worn float valve may also be the reason for the leakage. To check, it is enough to manually raise the float: if the leak does not stop, you have to replace the valve.
To get to the valve, close the water supply to the tank and completely drain it into the toilet, remove the cover from the side of the body of the drainage mechanism, remove the axis fixing the position of the float lever and remove the valve. Often in the role of the axis used car pin in the form of a semicircular, double steel wire. Such axle is eventually covered with rust, failure of the float lever, and water continuously begins to flow into the tank. To all the reasons for the breakage of the locking mechanism and the flow of water, you can also include this one.
So, removing the float from the lever, carefully inspect for cracks, which can be completely soldered with a soldering iron.
If you have not replaced any defects on the float, but the level of water entering the tank reaches the level of the overflow tube, it is better to replace the valve in the piston. If there is not a new rubber device next to it, then it can be cut in a piece of rubber of suitable thickness.
6. Water can also flow due to a breach of the membrane integrity from the siphon of the drain tank. The only way to solve the problem is to replace the membrane. To do this, the float arm is attached at the top to the crossbar, the nut that connects the drain tank and the flushing pipe is unscrewed. After disconnecting the siphon from the lever, the worn out diaphragm is replaced with a new one. After the fault has been rectified, the flush valve assembly is reassembled and installed into place.
The technology of repairing the mechanism of the toilet tank-compact canister you can see in the video on youtube.
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